🇲🇦 摩洛哥 | 迷失在深淺不一的藍城中：舍夫沙萬 Lost in the Shades of Blue: A Journey Through Chefchaouen, Morocco

走進其中一座藍城中 Stepping into One of the World’s Iconic Blue Cities

談起「最喜歡的顏色」時，藍色總不會是第一個脫口而出的顏色（我最喜歡的顏色是綠色！），雖說如此，這回到訪全球三座具有盛名的藍城舍夫沙萬Chefchaouen，還是滿心期待，沒去過另外兩座藍色城市：印度久德浦爾Jodhpur、希臘聖托里尼Santorini，想像過的畫面卻不時在腦海中出現，這真的是一座有著滿溢藍色的山城嗎？

為何舍夫沙萬都是藍色？有想過這個問題嗎？當地人特別喜歡藍色？被強迫屋子都要漆成藍色？目前聽到有兩個說法，一是為了防蚊，二是1920-30年代猶太難民逃到此處，把藍色想為天空和天堂的顏色，也有和平的延伸。回頭想想，舍夫沙萬的確是這趟旅程中，我覺得最自在、最悠哉、最安全的小城鎮，至今回想起，還是滿滿感動，謝謝舍夫沙萬帶給我的無盡美好回憶。

這天也是難得的真正自由日，不需要再拉車，不用一直移動，強烈建議在舍夫沙萬住兩晚以上，那麼會有真正一整天時間探索舍夫沙萬。在山城小旅店用完早餐後，跟室友一起整裝待發去藍色小城兜轉去。

When asked about my favorite color, blue has never been the first that comes to mind—green holds that place in my heart. Yet, as I made my way to Chefchaouen, one of the world’s three most iconic blue cities, I was filled with anticipation.

I’ve yet to visit the other two—Jodhpur in India and Santorini in Greece—but vivid images of them have often played in my imagination. I found myself wondering: Is Chefchaouen truly a mountain town awash in shades of blue, just like the photos suggest?

Why is Chefchaouen painted entirely in blue? Have you ever wondered? Is it simply that the locals love the color? Or is there some rule requiring homes to be painted this way?

There are a few theories. One says the blue repels mosquitoes. Another, more poetic version, traces the tradition to Jewish refugees who arrived in the 1920s and 30s, painting the walls blue to symbolize the sky and heaven—a gesture of hope, peace, and spirituality.

Whatever the reason, looking back, Chefchaouen was without question the place where I felt the most at ease, the most unhurried, and the safest throughout this journey. Even now, the memories stir a quiet joy in me. Chefchaouen gifted me a kind of serenity that’s hard to put into words—and for that, I’m endlessly grateful.

It also happened to be one of those rare travel days of complete freedom: no long drives, no transit, no schedules. I strongly recommend staying in Chefchaouen for at least two nights. That way, you’ll have an entire day to truly explore its winding alleys and tranquil rhythm.

After a leisurely breakfast in our little mountain guesthouse, my roommate and I packed our day bags and set off to lose ourselves in the enchanting blue maze of this Moroccan gem.

文章閱讀：【摩洛哥】舍夫沙萬漫時光，住在藍城裡Chefchaouen, Morocco

為何舍夫沙萬如此魔幻？一來是有著看不完的藍色，第二個是融入漂亮、精緻的圖騰、雕花，這兩者加在一起根本就是殺記憶體的地方。才從小旅店走出來，過了馬路，就看到藍色鐵門上的雕花，直呼：「舍夫沙萬連鐵門都好夢幻啊～～～」

出發到舍夫沙萬前，我們的司機就耳提面命提醒大家：「記得不要拍人，只能拍遠遠的景，千萬別對準人臉拍照，摩洛哥人很不喜歡被拍照，有些甚至會搶相機要求刪除照片，尤其又以舍夫沙萬人最兇！切記切記。」帶著一絲憂心與不安逛起了老城。

Part of Chefchaouen’s enchantment lies in its endless shades of blue—but there’s more. Intricate motifs and ornate carvings are woven into the city’s fabric, adding a level of detail and craftsmanship that borders on the surreal. The fusion of color and design makes this town a true feast for the senses—an aesthetic overload in the best possible way.

I had barely stepped out of our little guesthouse when I spotted a carved iron gate across the street, painted in deep azure and adorned with delicate floral patterns. I couldn’t help but exclaim, “Even the gates in Chefchaouen feel like something out of a dream!”

Before we arrived, our driver had given us a firm word of advice: “Please remember—do not take photos of people. Landscapes, yes. Distant shots of the streets, fine. But avoid photographing faces. Moroccans, especially those in Chefchaouen, generally dislike being photographed. Some may even confront you and demand you delete the image. This is important. Please be respectful.”

With that caution echoing in our minds, we wandered into the medina with a mix of awe and wariness—careful to take in the beauty around us without intruding on the privacy of those who call this place home.

此時的街巷才剛甦醒，陽光落下，藍色小城高掛著盆栽，也增添許多活力。

At this hour, the alleyways of the blue city were just beginning to stir. Sunlight streamed in, casting a gentle glow across the indigo walls. Hanging flower pots, suspended like ornaments against the blue, added vibrant bursts of life—breathing energy and charm into the awakening streets.

愛貓人士絕對會愛上舍夫沙萬！這裡的貓咪很多，大多都不怕生人，挺溫和，經常在各地方慵懶躺著，像這兩隻光天化日下正在睡大頭覺呢！

Cat lovers will find themselves utterly enchanted by Chefchaouen. The city is home to countless cats—most of them friendly, relaxed, and unbothered by the presence of visitors. They lounge with effortless grace in doorways, on steps, or beneath the sun-drenched corners of the medina. Like these two, caught in the middle of a blissful midday nap, completely at ease under the Moroccan sun.

舍夫沙萬老城區說大不大，若要仔細逛，也需要好幾小時，更別說像我這樣什麼都要看要拍，處處停留的拍照人。老城內的街道錯綜複雜，有一條比較大的主幹道，這條主要道路的前半段有許多攤販、商家，可以看到許多大人小孩在顧店，還有賣滿滿摩洛哥風情的衣飾帽品，很有在魔幻小鎮的感覺。

Chefchaouen’s old medina may not be vast, but to explore it thoroughly takes several hours—especially for travelers like myself, who stop to admire and capture every detail along the way. The maze-like streets twist and turn, revealing hidden corners and quiet surprises at every bend.

At the heart of the medina is a main thoroughfare—wider than the rest—lined with local vendors and family-run shops. Here, you’ll see both adults and children tending to their stalls, selling everything from handwoven garments to colorful hats and accessories, each piece infused with Moroccan flair. Strolling through it feels like stepping into a spellbinding little town straight out of a storybook.

舍夫沙萬老城區內也有賣皮革包包、皮拖鞋等，雖然款式、顏色沒有在非斯多樣，當然，價格肯定是非斯最實惠，不過我在老城區中有問一款皮包，價格很有競爭力，跟非斯比不會有過多價差，若在非斯沒有選到自己喜歡的皮件，到舍夫沙萬不妨找找。

Within Chefchaouen’s old medina, you’ll also find shops selling handcrafted leather goods—bags, sandals, and more. While the selection may not be as extensive or varied in style and color as in Fez, the prices are often just as competitive.

During my wanderings through the medina, I inquired about a particular leather bag and was pleasantly surprised by its affordability—comparable to what you might find in Fez, with no significant price difference. So, if you didn’t find the perfect piece in Fez, Chefchaouen offers a worthwhile second chance to discover beautiful Moroccan leatherwork in a more tranquil, relaxed setting.

柳橙汁堪稱摩洛哥特產之一，香甜健康好喝，重點是又便宜，因為帶不走，有到摩洛哥就狠狠罐個幾杯吧。走到這攤時，驚見簡體中文，問顧攤的弟弟為何有中文字？他害羞地說：「之前有中國遊客來幫我寫的。」摩洛哥給中國遊客免簽證，因此許多中國人直奔神秘的北非花園摩洛哥一睹風采。

Freshly squeezed orange juice is undoubtedly one of Morocco’s national treasures—fragrant, sweet, refreshingly healthy, and remarkably affordable. Since you can’t take it with you, it’s best to indulge while you’re here—sip after golden sip.

As I wandered through the medina, I stumbled upon a juice stand that caught my attention—not for the oranges, but for the sign written in Simplified Chinese. Curious, I asked the young vendor about it. Smiling shyly, he explained, “Some Chinese tourists wrote it for me during their visit.”

Thanks to Morocco’s visa-free policy for Chinese citizens, an increasing number of Chinese travelers are making their way to this enchanting North African garden, eager to uncover its rich history, vibrant culture, and mystique. Encounters like this—simple, warm, and unexpected—are what make Morocco all the more memorable.

白色長袍是許多摩洛哥男人會穿的傳統服飾，再穿上皮拖鞋，就很摩洛哥風格。（只是我將這張照片發在line@中，有幾位粉絲猜這是在新疆！嗯，不得不說，其實新疆跟摩洛哥還真有許多相似之處呢，再敘。）

The traditional white djellaba—a long, flowing robe—is commonly worn by Moroccan men, often paired with classic leather slippers. Together, they form a quintessentially Moroccan look that blends elegance with cultural heritage.

When I shared a photo of this scene on my Line@ channel, a few followers guessed it was taken in Xinjiang! It’s a fair observation—there are, in fact, surprising visual and cultural parallels between Morocco and parts of Central Asia. But that’s a story for another time.

被這樣一片帶有魔力的藍色吸引，有位小男孩坐在自家門口，我跟小不點在這區域拍照，小男孩很害羞，卻又很想靠近我們，我在拍照時，揮手要他過來坐在我旁邊，他竟然默默地移動到我旁邊，跟我拍了幾張照片，拍完後，把相機轉過來，顯示剛才的合照讓他看，看到螢幕中的自己，笑了。

Drawn by the enchanting hue of a magical blue, a young boy sat quietly at the doorstep of his home as we wandered through the area, taking photographs. He was shy, yet visibly curious, stealing glances at us from a distance. As I continued shooting, I gestured for him to join me. To my delight, he slowly edged closer and sat beside me, allowing us to capture a few gentle moments together. Afterward, I turned the camera around to show him the photos we had just taken. Upon seeing his own image on the screen, a smile lit up his face—a quiet, beautiful connection made without a single word spoken.

藍色地板、藍色牆壁、藍色的門、藍色的拱門，連掛在牆上的鐵梯也是藍色，藍的很徹底，也讓我會心一笑。

Blue floors, blue walls, a blue door, and even a blue archway—every detail bathed in the same rich hue. Even the iron ladder hanging on the wall had been painted blue. It was a commitment to color so complete, so deliberate, it made me smile with quiet admiration.

當然，偶爾偶爾也會出現這樣粉嫩的綠色，不過仔細看，牆面還是淺藍色，高掛的花盆也是藍色的呢。

Of course, every now and then, a soft, pastel green makes a gentle appearance. But look closely—the walls remain a pale blue, and even the flower pots hanging high above are painted in that signature shade of blue. It’s a subtle reminder that here, blue isn’t just a color—it’s a way of life.

這一處藍色美到冒泡，很想衝進去拍照，但是，後來了解了一下，進去別人家場地需要付費，就打消念頭，站在上頭拍拍照即可。喜歡不一定要擁有，遠遠看也很美。

This particular shade of blue was almost too beautiful to be real—irresistibly photogenic, it tempted me to step right in for the perfect shot. But after learning that entering the private property required a fee, I decided to simply admire it from a respectful distance. After all, beauty doesn’t always need to be possessed. Sometimes, it’s just as moving when admired from afar.

這座藍色小城有真正的居民，不會過度觀光化，經常看到當地人間在屋頂曬衣服，或是穿傳統服飾走在路上，都是一道最在地化的風情。

This charming blue town is more than just a postcard-perfect destination—it is home to a genuine, living community. Unlike overly commercialized tourist spots, it retains its authentic rhythm. Locals can often be seen hanging laundry on rooftops or strolling through narrow lanes in traditional attire, offering visitors a glimpse into the town’s true, everyday beauty.

這處樓梯是舍夫沙萬各國網美們拍照打卡聖地！甚至許多舍夫沙萬的報章雜誌封面都是以這樓梯為取景，當然，要拍到空景需要一些時間等待，這條樓梯人氣滿滿，永遠都是各國遊客等著上去拍照，拍完空景後，抓緊時間請朋友幫忙拍幾張假網美照，才滿意離去。

This staircase is one of Chefchaouen’s most iconic photo spots—a beloved backdrop for influencers from around the world and a frequent feature on the covers of local magazines and travel publications. Capturing it without a crowd requires patience, as it’s almost always buzzing with visitors eager for their moment on the steps. After waiting for the perfect, people-free shot, I seized the moment and asked a friend to snap a few playful “influencer-style” photos. Only then, satisfied, did I move on—another memory made in this enchanting blue city.

來到這樣夢幻的藍色城市，該怎麼穿比較能突顯人像呢？What should one wear to truly stand out in a city this dreamily blue?

白色！能穿一襲白色洋裝當然是最完美的穿搭，白色純潔搭上藍色小城，這樣的模樣，可說是經典中的經典，但是我的衣櫃中都沒有純白色洋裝，在德國、葡萄牙也物色很久，還是沒有看到喜歡的，還好從台灣有帶一件挖背白色上衣、白綠相間條紋雪紡長褲、白色鞋子，還是以白色為主，一點點的綠色也不會被藍色吃掉太多，顏色還是很能襯托人像。

White!

A flowing white dress is undoubtedly the perfect choice—its purity set against the city’s endless shades of blue creates a look that’s nothing short of iconic. It’s a timeless pairing that never fails to captivate. While I didn’t have a solid white dress in my wardrobe, and despite searching through shops in Germany and Portugal, I never quite found one I loved. Thankfully, I had packed a backless white top from Taiwan, paired with white-and-green striped chiffon trousers and crisp white shoes. The overall palette remained light and fresh—predominantly white, with just a hint of green that held its own beautifully against the blue. A subtle, striking combination that lets the portrait shine.

都說舍夫沙萬人很兇，不能拍正面，導致緊張兮兮見到當地人很想拍照，就遠遠拍張背影照，也讓畫面更豐富一些。

There’s a common belief that the people of Chefchaouen can be rather wary of having their photos taken—especially from the front. Out of respect, and admittedly a bit of nervousness, I found myself capturing only distant back views of the locals. In the end, these discreet, respectful frames added a quiet richness to the composition, allowing the spirit of the place to speak through gesture and silhouette.

經常看到孩子們騎著腳踏車、在路上跟朋友們嘻笑玩著，讓老城活過來，充滿年輕與笑聲，更多的是看到當地人生活的模樣。

It’s not uncommon to see children riding bicycles, laughing and playing with friends on the streets, bringing the old town to life. Their youthful energy and laughter fill the air, offering a vibrant glimpse into the everyday lives of the locals—a true reflection of the town’s spirit, where tradition meets the joy of the present moment.

亂走亂逛時，逛到當地菜市場，有些攤販賣著新鮮蔬果，照片中的老先生穿傳統服飾拎著塑膠袋，正在買菜。

While wandering aimlessly through the streets, I stumbled upon the local market, where vendors offered an array of fresh fruits and vegetables. In the photograph, an elderly gentleman, dressed in traditional attire, carries a plastic bag as he shops for his daily groceries—a simple yet beautiful moment that captures the essence of local life.

摩洛哥的水果雖然賣相不佳但是都很多汁香甜，到市場也可買些自己喜歡的水果，也補充水分，別忘了，夏日的摩洛哥可是氣溫動輒飆到40度，快要融化的溫度。

之後跟朋友走了旁邊的小路，繞了一圈之後，咦？怎麼又走回來這個菜市場？在老城中行走果然會迷路，我們在這個菜市場來來回回繞了好幾次就是走不出去，因為每個地方都是藍色幾無識別度，而且我又是個大路痴，只覺得自己怎麼那麼蠢，一直在這兒打轉，之後怎麼離開菜市場也是莫名其妙，反正，有路走就對了，大不了一直迷路，沒什麼。（聳肩）

Moroccan fruits may not always boast the most polished appearance, but what they lack in looks, they more than make up for in flavor—juicy, fragrant, and naturally sweet. A quick visit to the local market is a great opportunity to pick up some favorites, and a refreshing way to stay hydrated—especially in the Moroccan summer heat, where temperatures can easily soar past 40°C, leaving you on the brink of melting.

Later, my friend and I wandered down a side alley, only to find ourselves—somehow—right back at the same market. Navigating the old medina is truly disorienting. We circled this market several times, unable to find a way out. With every corner painted in the same brilliant shade of blue, the maze-like alleys offer little to no sense of direction—particularly for someone as directionally challenged as I am. I couldn’t help but laugh at myself, endlessly looping through the same spot. In the end, we left the market almost by accident. But that’s part of the charm here: just keep walking—getting lost is all part of the adventure. (shrugs)

熱情的古董店老闆 The warm-hearted antique shop owner

拿著地圖，歪著頭東倒西歪研究著，不太確定自己現在的方位到底在哪？再次比對地圖中的建築物跟名稱，想著應該是走到老城的市中心，有個清真寺、圓環，還有小餐館林立，天氣很熱又無遮蔽物，在清真寺外頭拍拍照片沒進去，之後被一扇綠色木門吸引，順著逛，發現附近是清真學校，再來，發現一家古董店，我跟Carrie走進去逛逛，老闆穿著橘褐色長袍，一頭銀髮笑盈盈看著我們，也跟我們聊聊天，最後要離開了，老闆開口問我們：「妳們想不想到我家樓上看風景？」本想拒絕，因為我看到樓梯口貼了單子，寫著上去樓上要付XX提拉姆，跟Carrie商量之後，想著是人家主動問的，先說好再隨機應變吧。

跟在老闆後面，刺眼的陽光再次照耀，亮到眼睛都快睜不開…見到由橘色、白色組成的古老清真寺、熱鬧的小圓環、還有層層疊疊的藍色房子們，想著我們一直在這堆藍色街道中迷路，現在卻站在高處看它們，想來也真有趣。下樓後，老闆拉著我們到客廳坐坐，拿出一張照片給我們看，上頭的照片是一位亞洲女生跟他的合照，他說是一位日本女生，她回日本後，真的有寄照片給他，讓他很感動，要我們跟他合照，Carrie過去時，老闆用力摟著Carrie的腰，我在相機後面按下快門，只見Carrie故作鎮定一樣笑得很燦爛，老闆招我過去坐，我嚇到花容失色連忙說不用了啦blabla，Carrie倒是很大方說：「沒關係啦！我就犧牲一下色相，換到去樓上看風景的機會。」

當然，古董店老闆沒有跟我們收錢。

Holding a map and tilting my head from side to side, I tried to make sense of my surroundings, uncertain of exactly where I was. After cross-referencing the buildings and names on the map, I figured I must have wandered into the heart of the old medina—there was a mosque, a roundabout, and a scattering of small eateries. The sun was scorching, with no shade in sight, so I snapped a few photos outside the mosque but didn’t go in. Just then, a green wooden door caught my eye. I followed its charm and soon found myself in front of a madrasa. Not long after, we stumbled upon a little antique shop. Carrie and I stepped inside.

The shopkeeper, dressed in a rust-colored djellaba, greeted us with a kind smile beneath his silver hair. He struck up a friendly conversation, and just as we were about to leave, he asked with a twinkle in his eye, “Would you like to see the view from my rooftop?” At first, I hesitated. I’d noticed a sign at the stairway entrance indicating there was a fee to go up. Carrie and I exchanged a look—he had invited us, after all—so we agreed to play it by ear.

We followed him upstairs, squinting as the sunlight burst through once more, dazzlingly bright. From above, we were met with a stunning view: the historic mosque in shades of orange and white, a lively little roundabout, and layers upon layers of blue houses stacked like painted dreams. We had been hopelessly lost in these very alleys moments ago, and now, here we stood, looking out over them from above. The contrast was almost poetic.

Back downstairs, the shopkeeper led us into his sitting room and pulled out a photo. In it, he stood arm-in-arm with an Asian woman. “She was Japanese,” he said fondly. “She sent this photo to me after she returned home. It meant a lot.” Then, he asked if we’d take a photo with him, too. When Carrie stepped over, he pulled her in tightly by the waist as I snapped the photo. Carrie, ever composed, flashed a dazzling smile. When he gestured for me to come over next, I politely declined with an awkward laugh, rambling out excuses. Carrie just shrugged and said, “It’s fine—I’ll trade a little charm for a rooftop view.”

Of course, the warm-hearted antique shop owner never charged us a thing.

從古董店老闆家頂樓看出去，這顏色跟天氣一樣，看著炎熱。中午在圓環附近的小餐館，點了杯現榨柳橙汁當午餐，也休息一會兒，休息差不多再繼續去探索藍城。

From the rooftop of the antique shop owner’s home, the view stretched out beneath a blazing sun—colors as intense as the midday heat itself. Around noon, we stopped at a small café near the roundabout and ordered a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice for lunch—a simple, refreshing pause in the day. After a bit of rest, it was time to set off again, ready to dive back into the endless blue of this enchanting city.

老城的規模不大不小，夠旅人在裡頭走迷宮走一天了。其實遠遠看，並不覺得特別藍，稀稀疏疏的藍色妝點著牆面，要真正走進去街道，才能感受它的魅力。

The old medina is neither too large nor too small—just the right size to get wonderfully lost in for an entire day. From a distance, it may not appear overwhelmingly blue; the color seems to scatter softly across the walls in delicate patches. It’s only when you step into the winding alleys that the city’s true charm begins to unfold, revealing its quiet magic one turn at a time.

老城之外的舍夫沙萬 Beyond the Medina: The Other Side of Chefchaouen

沿著樓梯一路往下走，走到大馬路，才驚覺我們已經出了老城區，區外頭有城牆圍起，同時有比較現代化的銀行、規模大一些的餐廳等，不過，因為還在舍夫沙萬，城外一樣是各種藍色，只是景色跟老城區內相比，還是差那麼點風情。也趁好有機會，在城外區走走看看。

We followed a staircase downhill and soon found ourselves on a main road—only then did we realize we had wandered beyond the old medina. Outside the ancient walls, the city opens up to a more modern side of Chefchaouen, where banks and larger restaurants line the streets. Yet even here, the signature blue remains ever-present, painting the town in familiar hues. Still, the atmosphere feels a touch different—less quaint, perhaps, than the intimate charm of the old quarter. It was the perfect opportunity to slow down and explore Chefchaouen’s lesser-seen edges.

出了城還是這樣的淡藍色，總覺得有股淡淡的哀愁。

Even outside the city walls, the soft blue lingers—gentle and subdued. There’s a quiet melancholy in its hue, as if the color itself holds a memory, whispering stories of time and place with every painted wall.

旁邊是清真寺，可能是做完禮拜，散會人潮不斷走出來，有人穿一般衣服，有人穿傳統服飾，新舊融合成現在的舍夫沙萬。

Beside us stood a mosque, and as the call to prayer concluded, waves of people began to stream out—some dressed in everyday clothing, others in traditional attire. It was a beautiful blend of past and present, where heritage and modern life coexist effortlessly, capturing the true essence of today’s Chefchaouen.

也見到幾間並排的書報攤，賣有法文版的小王子，可能西曬嚴重，這裡的書籍都曬到褪色，但我覺得跟舍夫沙萬的復古時間很呼應。還有，城外賣的明信片比老城區還要便宜，我在城外也買了幾張。

I came across a row of newsstands, their shelves lined with sun-faded books—including a French edition of The Little Prince. Perhaps due to the harsh afternoon sun, many of the covers had lost their original color, yet somehow, this weathered charm felt perfectly in sync with Chefchaouen’s nostalgic atmosphere. Interestingly, postcards sold outside the medina were noticeably more affordable than those within the old city walls. Naturally, I picked up a few to take home.

其實舍夫沙萬跟之前去的馬拉喀什、非斯、撒哈拉沙漠相比，氣溫相對涼爽許多，這天戴著大圓頂草帽，套上薄外套就逛了一整天。路邊的小攤販躲在樹下，跟不知是朋友還是買東西的人聊很開心。

Compared to the searing heat of Marrakech, Fes, or the Sahara Desert, Chefchaouen feels refreshingly cool. On this day, a wide-brimmed straw hat and a light jacket were all I needed to wander comfortably from morning to dusk. Along the way, I passed small street vendors tucked under the shade of trees, laughing and chatting—perhaps with friends, perhaps with customers. In Chefchaouen, the pace is slower, the air gentler, and the moments unexpectedly tender.

城外自然沒有那麼精彩，鋪天蓋地的藍色也頓時無影無蹤，再次比對地圖，嗯，沿著這條路一直走再左拐就可以回飯店，我們在豔陽下漫無目的走著，像喪失目標一樣散漫，正躊躇著要不要回飯店休息的同時，Carrie提議：「不然我們再走回去老城區吧！要嗎？」

「好啊！城外應該就是這樣了，老城內比較好拍照。」我說。如果不是Carrie有主見的開口，我可能就默默地走回飯店休息，而錯過後面精彩的旅程。

Outside the medina, the magic fades—the iconic blue seemingly vanishes without a trace. We paused to check the map: just a straight walk ahead and a left turn would lead us back to the hotel. Under the blazing sun, we wandered aimlessly, unhurried and uncertain, unsure whether to retreat and rest. That’s when Carrie turned to me and said, “Why don’t we head back into the old town instead?”

“Sure,” I replied. “There’s more to see—and better spots for photos inside the medina anyway.”

If Carrie hadn’t spoken up with such quiet conviction, I might have simply returned to the hotel and missed what turned out to be one of the most memorable parts of our journey.

重回藍城之中 Back Within the Embrace of the Blue City

找了個樓梯，想著順著樓梯走，就應該會回到老城區吧，心裡是這樣想的。而且也迫不及待想再次回到滿滿藍色的奇幻世界中。稍微觀察了一下，舍夫沙萬因為太美了，進而拉近人與人之間的關係，遊客們神情愉悅歡喜，當地人則是大方自若，沒有一絲焦急，多了份平和與寧靜。

We found a staircase and thought—surely, if we follow it upward, it must lead us back into the heart of the old medina. That was the hope, at least. I was eager to reenter the dreamlike world awash in every imaginable shade of blue.

As we slowly made our way back, I noticed something subtle yet profound—perhaps it’s the sheer beauty of Chefchaouen that draws people closer together. There’s a quiet joy in the expressions of fellow travelers, a lightness in their step. Locals, too, move with ease and warmth, unhurried, exuding a calm serenity that seems to flow naturally from the city itself.

老城區最熱鬧的區塊是主幹道那一帶，離開那一區塊，才能見到真正的舍夫沙萬風情。這一區的房子都是亮藍色，屋頂種有植物，爬滿了天空，一來遮陰二來顯現生命力，陽光也來湊熱鬧，看著，就很想住個一星期，讓自己來趟慢活居遊。

The liveliest part of the old medina is around the main street, but it’s once you venture beyond this busy area that you begin to experience the true essence of Chefchaouen. Here, the buildings are painted in vibrant blue, with rooftops adorned with greenery that climbs toward the sky—offering shade while symbolizing vitality. The sun joins in, casting a warm glow on everything, creating an atmosphere so inviting that it makes you want to linger for a week, indulging in the slow, peaceful rhythm of life.

走在外頭，走過這個拱門時，見到兩位當地人坐在此處吃著午飯，連帶比手畫腳問能不能進去拍照，她們害羞點點頭，我們小心翼翼從她們身旁走過，一邊拍照一邊研究她們的服裝，右邊戴帽子那位婦人穿紅白條紋的布裙子，在前往舍夫沙萬的路上，曾經停下來休息，有向路邊小攤租借衣服穿來拍照，就是同樣款式的裙子呢，難怪一直覺得很眼熟，原來我前一天已經穿過了，充滿摩洛哥熱力。

As we walked outside and passed beneath an archway, we saw two local women sitting there, enjoying their lunch. We gestured to ask if it would be alright to take a photo, and they shyly nodded. With quiet care, we moved past them, snapping photos while admiring their traditional attire. The woman on the right, wearing a red-and-white striped fabric skirt and a hat, looked familiar. On our way to Chefchaouen the day before, I had paused to rest by a roadside stall and rented a similar skirt to wear for photos. No wonder it seemed so familiar—I had already worn that very same style, embracing the warmth and spirit of Morocco.

午餐是一人一杯柳橙汁，但還是覺得好熱好渴，經過雜貨店時，腦波很弱的兩個人一致走進去買了瓶冰涼可樂，要付錢時，問了老闆多少錢，他比了罐身上的標價3提拉姆，立刻點頭說知道了並付錢。忽然覺得罐身上印上價錢這招很公道，到任何地區的價錢都一致，也不會有坑騙觀光客的情形，對舍夫沙萬的好感度再增加。

For lunch, we each had a refreshing glass of fresh orange juice, but the heat and thirst lingered. Passing by a small grocery store, we both—almost without thinking—walked in to grab a cold can of Coke. When it came time to pay, we asked the shopkeeper how much it was, and he simply pointed to the price printed on the can: 3 dirhams. I nodded and paid.

Suddenly, I appreciated the fairness of this pricing system—no hidden costs, no overcharging tourists. The price was the same everywhere, ensuring transparency. It made me feel even more fond of Chefchaouen, where such honest practices made the experience feel even more genuine.

逛到一家書報攤，選了幾張喜歡的明信片，老闆熟稔以廢紙包裝我買的幾張明信片，既環保又復古。隨後，我們想拍老闆站在書店前的照片，他卻招手要我們跟他合照，老闆對Carrie很有好感，拉著她拍了好幾張照片。忽然覺得舍夫沙萬人很可愛，也沒有之前聽說的那麼不易近人跟兇悍，不過前提是我們要一路保持笑咪咪，逢人就笑的親近性格，這樣當地人臉上的線條也會柔和許多。

We stumbled upon a small bookstore stall and picked out a few postcards that caught our eye. The shopkeeper expertly wrapped them in old newspaper—both eco-friendly and vintage. Later, we asked if we could take a photo of him standing in front of the store, but he waved us over to join him for a picture. He seemed especially fond of Carrie, pulling her in for several photos together.

In that moment, I realized how charming the people of Chefchaouen truly are. They weren’t at all as standoffish or intimidating as I had been led to believe. It’s all about approachability—if we kept smiling and exuded warmth, the faces of the locals softened, and they responded with the same kindness.

殺價殺到去頂樓吹風 Bargaining your way up to the rooftop breeze.

回程路上，Carrie在小店看到一扇舍夫沙萬的藍色大門，是木雕設計，Carrie說既然無法一直住在舍夫沙萬，那麼把舍夫沙萬帶回家吧！請我幫忙講價，老闆開的價錢有點高，當然，我們知道要殺價，我先是砍了一半，老闆陪笑說：「嘿，妳是直接5折的價格耶！我這個別家買不到這樣精美的，加點價錢吧！」

我轉身問Carrie：「妳真的很喜歡這個嗎？」

「喜歡啊！很漂亮，又有收藏價值，若價錢可以，我是想買一個回台灣。」Carrie說

我將這扇門拿下來仔細研究，發現有好幾處瑕疵，便對老闆說：「不如XX元吧，你看，這裡的油墨都流下來了，還有後面也有刮痕，這個是瑕疵品耶…」

老闆接手過去看看我所謂的瑕疵在哪，他說：「哦～這是小問題，回去再擦一擦就好了。」

「怎麼可能，自己擦壞了怎麼辦？」我說，並拉著Carrie往外走，我們不是裝裝樣子，是價錢壓不下來，真的不買了。

走離開小店時，我問Carrie：「妳的底價是多少？多少錢妳會買？」

「做工其實滿細的，XX元我就會買了。」Carrie說

我們沒有走離開太遠，老闆把我們叫住，雙手一攤說：「最低就只能給妳們XX元了，要嗎？」

老闆最後開的價錢，跟Carrie的底價一樣，分毫不差。我們走回店裡，付錢並請老闆包裝，交代是要手提上飛機，要包好一點，怕碰撞壞了。

On the way back, Carrie spotted a beautiful blue door from Chefchaouen at a small shop. The door was intricately carved, and Carrie said, “Since we can’t stay in Chefchaouen forever, let’s bring a piece of it home!” She asked me to help with the bargaining. The shopkeeper’s initial price was a bit high, but of course, we knew we had to negotiate. I immediately cut the price by half. The shopkeeper, smiling, said, “Hey, you’re asking for a 50% discount! You won’t find something this finely crafted anywhere else. Add a bit more to the price!”

I turned to Carrie and asked, “Do you really like this?”

“Yes! It’s beautiful, and it has collector’s value. If the price is right, I would love to take one back to Taiwan,” Carrie replied.

I took a closer look at the door and noticed several flaws. I said to the shopkeeper, “How about XX dirhams? You see, the ink has run down here, and there are scratches on the back. It’s a defective piece…”

The shopkeeper took the door from me, inspecting the flaws, and said, “Oh, that’s just a small issue. You can clean it up when you get home.”

“How could we fix it ourselves? What if we make it worse?” I responded, pulling Carrie toward the door. We weren’t just pretending to leave; the price wasn’t coming down, and we were really ready to walk away.

As we were about to leave the shop, I asked Carrie, “What’s your bottom price? How much would you be willing to pay?”

“The craftsmanship is quite fine. If it’s XX dirhams, I’d buy it,” Carrie said.

We hadn’t walked too far when the shopkeeper called us back, spreading his hands and saying, “The lowest I can go is XX dirhams. Will you take it?”

The price he offered was exactly what Carrie had mentioned—no difference at all. We returned to the shop, paid, and asked the shopkeeper to wrap it up carefully since we would be carrying it on the plane, ensuring it was protected from any damage.

這就是Carrie的舍夫沙萬的藍色大門。

包裝完畢準備離開小店時，老闆靦腆地開口問：「如果妳們現在不趕時間的話，要不要跟我去樓上頂樓吹風看風景？」

嘎？又來？摩洛哥男人的把妹招數就是約去頂樓看風景？反正也不趕時間，就跟著老闆鑽入房子內看看吧。經過一個像是大廳的地方，我問老闆：「這裡也是飯店嗎？」

「對啊！這裡有幾間房間，是飯店沒錯。如果妳要看，我再開幾間空房給妳們看看。」老闆說

This is Carrie’s blue door from Chefchaouen.

After the door was wrapped up and we were ready to leave the shop, the shopkeeper shyly asked, “If you’re not in a hurry, would you like to come up to the rooftop and enjoy the breeze and the view?”

Wait, again? Is this a Moroccan man’s flirting technique—to invite people to the rooftop for a view? Well, since we weren’t in a rush, we decided to follow the shopkeeper inside and take a look. Passing through what seemed like a lobby, I asked the shopkeeper, “Is this also a hotel?”

“Yes, it is! There are a few rooms here, it’s definitely a hotel. If you’d like, I can show you some of the available rooms,” the shopkeeper replied.

呼～這裡的視野比前一家古董店領樓還要開闊，而且有風。我跟Carrie爬上頂樓時很興奮，老闆乖乖地站在一旁等我們看風景也不打擾，從這兒還可以看到我們住的小旅店，還有看夕陽的山丘教堂呢！都說舍夫沙萬是座老城，我們在這兒也看到部分城牆遺跡，真的好感動，原先尋尋覓覓始終找不到城牆，卻意外到別人飯店頂樓看風景，也如願見到城牆，好滿足啊！

Ah, the view from here is even more expansive than from the previous antique shop’s rooftop, and there’s a breeze. Carrie and I were both excited as we climbed to the top, and the shopkeeper quietly stood aside, allowing us to enjoy the scenery without interruption. From here, we could even spot the little guesthouse where we were staying, as well as the hilltop church where we had hoped to catch the sunset! It’s often said that Chefchaouen is an old city, and from this vantage point, we could also see some of the remnants of the city walls. It was truly moving—after searching high and low and never quite finding the walls, we unexpectedly got to see them from the rooftop of someone else’s hotel, just as we had hoped. It felt so fulfilling!

許多人來到舍夫沙萬，總會入境隨俗（？）來口大麻，甚至有人說舍夫沙萬的巷弄都瀰漫著大麻味兒，我們太專心在這座藍城中閒逛，導致於沒特別注意是否有當地人 / 遊客抽大麻，也沒聞到大麻味。翻閱記憶卡中幾百張照片，只有這張疑似是大麻乾葉的照片，有沒有抽大麻，似乎不重要。

舍夫沙萬的驚喜總在不經意之間發生，前面兩次被當地人邀請到頂樓看風景，隨後又有兩位男生要求跟我合照，看來東方女生在摩洛哥是很受到歡迎的啊！（還是因為今天穿比較少？）我跟Carrie把這些舉動視為讚美並歡天喜地接受，而不是覺得摩洛哥人冒犯我們，一念之間，讓我們在舍夫沙萬總是開開心心，不需要抽大麻，心情已飄飄然。

Many people who visit Chefchaouen often embrace the local customs (or so they say) and try cannabis, with some even claiming that the alleyways of the blue city are filled with the smell of it. We were so absorbed in leisurely wandering the enchanting streets of this blue city that we didn’t particularly notice whether locals or tourists were smoking cannabis, nor did we catch the scent of it. Scrolling through the hundreds of photos on my memory card, the only one that might show what looks like dried cannabis leaves was a bit of a mystery. Whether or not cannabis was involved seemed irrelevant.

The surprises in Chefchaouen often happen when you least expect them. On two occasions, we were invited by locals to enjoy the view from their rooftops. Then, two young men asked to take photos with me. It seems that Eastern women are quite popular in Morocco! (Or maybe it was because I was dressed more casually today?) Carrie and I took these gestures as compliments and joyfully accepted them, never once feeling offended. In this fleeting moment, we were always cheerful in Chefchaouen, and with or without cannabis, we felt lighthearted and carefree.

幾位觀光客女孩前腳才剛走，看到這攤的老闆臭著一張臉，諾諾問了句：「請問可以進去坐著拍照嗎？」

老闆瞬間像是從雨天變成大晴天，笑得燦爛對我說：「可以啊，妳們進去拍照吧！」

藍色牆面搭上五顏六色的衣飾，讓摩洛哥風情更加濃郁。拍完離開後，我問Carrie：「剛才老闆臉很臭，害我很害怕不讓我們進去拍照，結果老闆笑得很開心耶！」

Carrie：「我覺得是剛才那群女生沒有問過老闆就自己進到人家區域拍照，所以老闆不開心。」

嗯，同理的將心比心，若想要拍照，一定要徵求主人同意，而不是自己擅自就去拍照，難免會引起不快，當然也會造就「舍夫沙萬人很兇」的形象。

在舍夫沙萬轉了一圈，最終有一個小心得：我跟Carrie結伴同行很無敵，因為年紀長些的摩洛哥人很喜歡她，年輕一些的小伙子很喜歡我，一路下來讓我們兩人老少通吃，完全沒有感受到「舍夫沙萬人很兇」這一點，反而都很害羞親切又真誠，也讓我們再一次感受到舍夫沙萬的魔力。

Just as a group of tourist girls left, we noticed the shopkeeper with a stern expression. Hesitantly, I asked, “Could we come in and take some photos?”

In an instant, his mood shifted as if the weather had gone from gloomy to bright sunshine. With a beaming smile, he replied, “Of course, feel free to take photos!”

The blue walls adorned with vibrant clothing added an even richer layer of Moroccan charm. After finishing the photos, I turned to Carrie and said, “The shopkeeper’s face was so grumpy earlier, I was worried he wouldn’t let us in to take photos, but then he smiled so warmly!”

Carrie smiled, replying, “I think the previous group of girls just barged in and took photos without asking him, which probably upset him.

Hmm, it’s a good reminder—always ask for permission before taking photos. Acting without consent can create discomfort and even lead to the impression that “people in Chefchaouen are unfriendly.”

After a full circle around Chefchaouen, I had a small realization: Traveling with Carrie made us an unbeatable pair. The older Moroccan men seemed to take a liking to her, while the younger guys showed interest in me. Together, we charmed people of all ages, and we never once encountered the “unfriendly locals” stereotype. Instead, everyone was shy, kind, and sincere, making us feel the true magic of Chefchaouen all over again.

回程途經一間畫廊，門沒關，走進去看到畫板、滿桌子顏料，沒見到畫家本人，牆上掛了一些畫作，抬頭慢慢欣賞著…，想著此時竟然漫步在全球三座藍城中之一，還是感到榮幸，經歷了無數次的迷路、被搭訕、拍假網美照之後，對摩洛哥忽然有一點點改觀同時又充滿不捨，這樣魔幻又有魅力的國度，初次見面就已經愛上它，又以舍夫沙萬待的時間最長、最自在。藍城時光又快又慢，一股離愁加入了這深淺不一的藍色中，調和了。

On the way back, we passed a gallery with its door ajar. We stepped inside to find canvases, tables covered in paint, but no sign of the artist. The walls were adorned with artwork, and we slowly gazed at the pieces, appreciating the quiet, artistic atmosphere. In that moment, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of honor—here I was, strolling through one of the world’s three blue cities. After countless detours, being approached by strangers, and taking those perfectly staged “Instagram-worthy” photos, my view of Morocco began to shift. I was filled with a bittersweet fondness for this magical, captivating country. From the very first encounter, I had fallen in love with it, and the time I spent in Chefchaouen, the blue city, was the most memorable and comfortable of all. Time here moved both quickly and slowly, and as the shades of blue blended, a sense of parting quietly added a tinge of melancholy to the experience.